i would start by checking to make sure that your filters are inplace right not messed up or anything seeing as how that is the last thing you did

 

I have pulled filters out and put back in. Also cleaned egr valve, but still runs bad, but only first thing in the morning. Talked with a buddy and he said it sounds like it may need injectors. Is there anyway to run a buzz test on these like the 7.3?

 

yes you can do a buzz test on your injectors. also check glow plug relay and glow plugs.

 

someone correct me if iam wrong, but from what i heard was the injectors has to stages one is cold and the other is warm...i bet after a few miles of driving the truck will move and run great....but in the morning it doesnt want to go anywhere....same thing happen with my truck and iam 99% sure that your injectors are going bad maybe not all of them but some are....when mine when bad i had 4 and thery where 1-4-5-7

 

That is what is happening. I go out and start it about twenty minutes before i leave for work and it still barely makes it out of the driveway. A couple miles down the road once it is warm it runs great and never has anymore problems.

 

yeah bud your injectors are going bad iam assuming you got 75k or more on your rig..iam not sure how many are bad only way to find out it for a buzz test. If i where you i would get that fix asap cuz if you dont your FICM will go out awesome and your truck will be a bi*** to start...i found that out the hard way...If i where you i would start with a buzz test then find out which ones are bad then fix it...If your handy and can work on cars a little and dont have a warrenty them replace the injectors yourself there not bad at all...buy the gasket kit from ford ($4.36 per injector) and get the injectors offline or something if you need any help or anything PM me or feel free to ask question its a a pretty easy fix

 

i meant also not awesome sorry

 

Alright thanks for the help. Are there only certain injectors that will work in my truck or will any 03-07 6.0 new/reman injector work?

 

yeah any 03-07 new/reman injector will work....heres a few helpful tips for you if you do it yourself.
1- replace all the gaskets on the injector (part # 3c3z-9229-aa) if the copper one at the bottom where the nozzle comes out (remove with a small flat head or something sharp but use caution)
2- to remove the injector harness from the head use a 12 point 19mm socket just press down on the socket and the harness will slide right out.
3- when putting on the new copper gasket use a 9mm so that gasket sits flush on the injector also lube with clean oil all gaskets on the injector when reinstailling it.
4- torque injector to 24 FT pounds

hopefully these tips help you out after it you will saved yourself some money and feel good knowing the truck will run awesome when you go to start it up in the morning

 

I agree with all above, except that 2003 model years use a different injector part number, and all 2004 to 2007 model years are identical.

I would also like to add, the nine TX-30 bolts on 2004 to 2007 model years that secure the high pressure oil rail to the rocker arm carrier are to be torqued to 10 ft-lbs.

 

For what it's worth, the issue described by the original poster may NOT be found by running an injector buzz test. The ONLY way to detect the sticking injector(s) would be to connect Ford's IDS (or any generic scan tool that can run what's called a "power balance") WHEN THE VEHICLE IS COLD, and start the engine as the symptom is occuring. Running an injector buzz test will only produce a PASS result.

Just this week, I had a truck that arrived "on the hook" where an injector buzz test PASSED, but revealed SIX injectors MECHANICALLY faulty.

Those of you who choose to replace your injectors yourselves, MAKE SURE you torque the injector hold-down (TX-40) to 24 ft-lbs. Overtightening that bolt will result in achieving the same effect as undertightening it. Don't ask me how I know!

Back on topic to the original poster's question, if you take it to your nearest Ford dealer to have the PCM/FICM/TCM reflashed, that SHOULD fix your issue. The cost of this, should be about whatever the dealer's hourly rate is.

 

For what it's worth, the issue described by the original poster may NOT be found by running an injector buzz test. The ONLY way to detect the sticking injector(s) would be to connect Ford's IDS (or any generic scan tool that can run what's called a "power balance") WHEN THE VEHICLE IS COLD, and start the engine as the symptom is occuring. Running an injector buzz test will only produce a PASS result.

Concerning the part in blue above; is it easier to diagnose injector stiction in colder weather (winter), as opposed to the warmer months?

I am having very similar symptoms as the OP with a 2006 6.0L with 142,000 miles (loss of power at initial startup, very difficult to start in cold weather, however once the engine gets some heat to it, seems to smooth out and run decent. Strong fuel odor out the tailpipe, and MPG has suffered badly. I used to get 19 mpg on the highway, now I am lucky to get 15 mpg. Also noticing black smoke out the tailpipe, like it is having an overfueling issue. Once engine is warmed up, the loss of power is still noticeable, although not as bad at intial cold startup.)

This leads me to think it's being caused by sticky injectors, and I'm almost certain I need some new injectors, but don't know how many, or how to properly check which ones are bad. Am I better off to wait until the weather starts cooling down again in the fall?

Could you OHM test each injector individually to make sure the solenoids are within spec? I'm referring to pins 1,2,3, & 4 on the pigtail from the injector. What is the proper OHM reading I should see, and which pins are paired?

Also, not sure if related or not, but my FICM went bad just a few weeks ago and I had a no start condition. I have replaced the FICM and reflashed all modules to latest calibration and symptoms have lessened, but are still there. Could a bad injector cause a FICM to fail?

Prior to the FICM going bad, I did an oil and fuel filter change. Symptoms were far worse after a fresh oil / fuel filter change, than the old oil that had 5000 miles on it and fuel filters that had 10000 miles. Not sure if this tells you anything, but why would it run worse on fresh oil & fuel filters? :dunno:

Sorry for the longwinded post! :tard:

 

thanks for the clear up m-chan68! learn something new everyday

 

Thanks for all the info and help.

 

i had that problem once but mine was blown blue smoke also it was egr cooler for me but it would run like crap for a little bit?

 

no no no check codes i bet you its the egr

 

Bump for my questions above? Thanks everyone :thumb:

Cleaned EGR valve, it had some accumulation, but not as bad as some I've seen pictures of. Cleaning the EGR valve did not change my symptoms.

 

Does anyone know if this problem was resolved? I am having the exact same issue.

 

Help with same problem

Does anyone know if this problem was resolved? I am having the exact same issues.

 

From what I have read its called stiction and if you run Rev-X in your oil it will fix it. My parents were having issues like this with there 04 6.0 and got to the point to where it would always have little power so I had them order Rev-X and run it and now it runs like a new truck they said. I have the same problem and got my Rev-X just waiting on my filters to get here.