First thing is - Do you have a WTS light when you first roll-on the key?

Next, oil is really not any problem in connectors, it's actually a benefit to the connection (except an an indication of a failed internal seal as with the ICP) so there's no reason to remove it from a CPS plug. Did you get new sensors or, when you say "installed the two sensors" were you putting the old ones back?

Speaking of the CPS and the fact you have an '01.... Do you have a Trans Temp Gauge in the cluster? If NOT, as you crank over on the starter, you should be able to see the Tach needle rise-up a bit showing you the cranking rpm AND an indication that the CPS is working (w/TT gauge you have the updated electrics that occurred that year and never shows cranking rpm)

Also, these trucks require either an expensive, professional scanner or a special one (like the SuperChips can do) so your local mechanic may not have had what's needed to scan. There are Much better alternatives to the SuperChips too -> http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/99...forum/99-03-7-3l-general-discussion/1044057-ford-superduty-diagnosis-cheap.html

 

Yes the WTS light comes on. The tach does rise a little when cranking. I replaced both sensors with new ones.

 

Where did you get the sensors?

 

The ICP I got at the Ford dealer. The exhaust and cps I bought on Amazon, the Ebps was a Delphi brand and the cps I can't remember the brand but was made in USA.

 

The cps was made by alliant power.

 

Do you still have the old cps? If so toss it in and see if it starts. Also check the harness for chaffing and cracked insulation by the cps.

 

I did try the old one and still not start, I checked the wires and didn't see anything bad. Was getting 5volts at the sensor. Wierd thing is it was running the day before just has ses light on. Change sensors and nothing. Not even with the old sensor put back in.

 

Seeing that cranking rpm would make me think the CPS isn't the problem, I would invest in either a Ford or IH one though, those aftermarket sensors are problematic in this engine.

So, next let's forget about a relationship between what you changed and the no start and go back to the basics.

I know we've covered some of this already....

WTS Light? - do you get it when you first roll-on the key? (shows the computer is running)

Do you see cranking rpm on the Tach? Do you have a spare CPS to try?

Is there fuel in the fuel bowl now? Does it refill after cranking? (open the drain level to check) Look above the pass ft tire, you'll see a 3/8" metal tube, against the motor that ends there, it's the drain for the bowl (yellow lever you slide to the side). Get a cup, open the lever, drain the fuel bowl, look at the fuel, close the lever. Then, turn the key to the ON position (should hear the pump) for 15 secs. Drain the fuel bowl again, whaddya got?

Can you hear/feel the pump running (below the dr seat, against the framerail)

Could the fuel gauge be giving a bad reading? (Below 1/4 tank?)

Is it cranking fast enough? - it won't even TRY to start if cranking too slowly.

Is your truck "chipped"? If so, remove it as a Test.

You can unplug the ICP sensor, as a Test, so the PCM sets a default value for the IPR to run on.

Did you check the plug and sheet metal nut going to the IPR? That nut can vibrate off and allow the solenoid going over the valve to slide around. The wires going to the IPR can get brittle, crack, and short together. Make sure the plug & wires look in good shape.

Also, since it's obvious you're gonna be doing the work yourself for the most part, consider investing in something that will not only retrieve codes but monitor the sensors so you can determine what's going wrong. Look into that link I posted above.

You might now Clear Codes with the SuperChips and rescan after trying to start (btw, I wouldn't run the SC tunes today there are Much better choices)

 

I did get a wts light when I first turn the key on. The tach was moving up a little to show some rpm's when cranking. I have been busy today and didn't have time to diagnose, so I dropped it off at a shop for them to try and figure it out. I need it back on the road asap because i need it on Monday. If by morning they haven't figured anything out I'll start with what you have given me NoRalPh. Thanks for the input guys!

 

Well I figured t out today. When the shop replaced the ICP sensor they wanted to "check the wiring" my brother did when replacing the pigtail. My brother said he laid them out side by side and matched them one at a time. The shop said two wires were backward. So today after running into dead ends and codes still not clearing I found a 95 power stroke and took a pic of the wiring. It had the same color wires as mine but not hooked up the same way, so I connected them like the 95 and viola all codes gone and running right! All this headache from the mechanic's goof up!

 

Glad you are up and running.

 

Did "the shop" give you your money back for the "repairs"?

I work on my own stuff. I occasionally make mistakes, replace the wrong thing, or it takes a long time to figure it out etc. But at least I don't pay anyone $100+ an hour to make the same mistakes I can make myself for nothing.

 

I agree! I usually work on my own stuff too. I was in a time crunch when I bought the truck from my brother and he had already replaced a few parts. Also am new to power strokes so we just took it to the shop to diagnose the problem, which he did, but his 18 year old mechanic he had working for him botched the wires up. It ran smooth which it didn't before, but that was because it was just overriding the ICP sensor. I only paid him $40 so I'm not going to argue it. All good now and now I have a little more knowledge about how these trucks work.