Not that it makes a difference, just wondering if it was a big change.
TDIPowerstroke
stage1's MPG?
how difficult is it to do injectors? i'd like to go to stage 2's. Prob gona have to do a cluch too
Injectors arent too bad to do, I had never done them before and was able to do them on mine, I asked a lot of quesitons first but I did a write up for when I did mine for others to look at
taken from matt
REMOVAL
1. Remove the intake all the way to the turbo and any parts bolted on the valve cover along with the crankcase breather. Remove engine cover (if you have one). Remove the small black box on the side of the heater core and undo the vaccum line that runs from it (this will make it easier to get to some of the bolts)
2. Drain the HPOP reservoir which is a rectangular piece located in front of the fuel bowl with a plug on top.
3. Remove the valve covers which for me consisted of some 10mm bolts and 1/2" bolts but some people have 13mm.
4. Once these are off disconnect the wiring that connects to the gaskets and pull the gaskets off. At the same time disconnect all the wiring from the injectors and glow plugs to the UVCH and remove the four UVCHs as well.
5. Using a 1/8" allen socket bit and an extension take out the oil galley plugs. There are two plugs on each side located in between the front two and rear two injectors and the are a goldish color and are just a small plug. When going to remove these be sure to tap the allen bit into the plug a couple times with a hammer so it is seated to prevent stripping it.
6. Once these are removed allow the oil to drain for about 30 minutes.
7. Once the oil is drained remove all the oil deflectors on the injector which are the small silver pieces held down with a 5mm allen head. Undo that allen bolt and pull all the deflectors off.
8. Then take an 8mm socket and undo all the injector retaining bolts that are located on the side of the injector where the wiring from the UVCH went into the injector.
9. Then from the opposite side of where you removed the bolt push the retaining collar forward and starting the the rear injectors first, use a prybar to pry up on the retaining collar to pop out the injectors.
10. You start with the rear becaue the engine is on an angle so any oil will flow that direction. Next up take a 10mm deep socket and remove the glow plugs.
Now you are done with the removal
REINSTALLATION
1. Go ahead and first lube up all the injectors, especially around the o-rings liberally before putting them back in. Then go ahead and start putting the injectors in and use a rubber mallet to tap them in the rest of the way to be sure they are seated. Then reinstall the retaining bolts and oil deflectors, and galley plugs.
2. Then before going any further you need to purge the cylinders of any oil to prevent hydro locking. So with nothing else hooked up, hook the batteries back up and crank the engine over with the key a few times. You will see oil coming out of the glow plug holes. Do this until just a mist comes out.
3. Once this is done go ahead and reinstall the glow plugs, preferably new ones.
4. Then hook the UVCHs back up along with the valve cover gaskets and the wiring that runs to them. Also refill the HPOP. Now it is time to get the engine started. You should do it first with the valve covers off to inspect if anything is wrong. Crank for about 15 seconds each time giving it gas then let the starter rest for a minute or so. Dont get scared it took me about 25 minutes to get it going. Once you do let it run for a couple minutes.
5. Once that is done go ahead and put the valve covers and everything else back on
6. Once all that is back on go ahead and start it again and drive it for about 50 miles to get all the air out and be easy on it so you dont risk scoring the tips of the nozzles and enjoy the new injectors!
REMOVAL
1. Remove the intake all the way to the turbo and any parts bolted on the valve cover along with the crankcase breather. Remove engine cover (if you have one). Remove the small black box on the side of the heater core and undo the vaccum line that runs from it (this will make it easier to get to some of the bolts)
2. Drain the HPOP reservoir which is a rectangular piece located in front of the fuel bowl with a plug on top.
3. Remove the valve covers which for me consisted of some 10mm bolts and 1/2" bolts but some people have 13mm.
4. Once these are off disconnect the wiring that connects to the gaskets and pull the gaskets off. At the same time disconnect all the wiring from the injectors and glow plugs to the UVCH and remove the four UVCHs as well.
5. Using a 1/8" allen socket bit and an extension take out the oil galley plugs. There are two plugs on each side located in between the front two and rear two injectors and the are a goldish color and are just a small plug. When going to remove these be sure to tap the allen bit into the plug a couple times with a hammer so it is seated to prevent stripping it.
6. Once these are removed allow the oil to drain for about 30 minutes.
7. Once the oil is drained remove all the oil deflectors on the injector which are the small silver pieces held down with a 5mm allen head. Undo that allen bolt and pull all the deflectors off.
8. Then take an 8mm socket and undo all the injector retaining bolts that are located on the side of the injector where the wiring from the UVCH went into the injector.
9. Then from the opposite side of where you removed the bolt push the retaining collar forward and starting the the rear injectors first, use a prybar to pry up on the retaining collar to pop out the injectors.
10. You start with the rear becaue the engine is on an angle so any oil will flow that direction. Next up take a 10mm deep socket and remove the glow plugs.
Now you are done with the removal
REINSTALLATION
1. Go ahead and first lube up all the injectors, especially around the o-rings liberally before putting them back in. Then go ahead and start putting the injectors in and use a rubber mallet to tap them in the rest of the way to be sure they are seated. Then reinstall the retaining bolts and oil deflectors, and galley plugs.
2. Then before going any further you need to purge the cylinders of any oil to prevent hydro locking. So with nothing else hooked up, hook the batteries back up and crank the engine over with the key a few times. You will see oil coming out of the glow plug holes. Do this until just a mist comes out.
3. Once this is done go ahead and reinstall the glow plugs, preferably new ones.
4. Then hook the UVCHs back up along with the valve cover gaskets and the wiring that runs to them. Also refill the HPOP. Now it is time to get the engine started. You should do it first with the valve covers off to inspect if anything is wrong. Crank for about 15 seconds each time giving it gas then let the starter rest for a minute or so. Dont get scared it took me about 25 minutes to get it going. Once you do let it run for a couple minutes.
5. Once that is done go ahead and put the valve covers and everything else back on
6. Once all that is back on go ahead and start it again and drive it for about 50 miles to get all the air out and be easy on it so you dont risk scoring the tips of the nozzles and enjoy the new injectors!
I sent mine in to get rebuilt so they are flow tested but you really need to get them flow tested if your gonna rebuild them
i answered this in another post but i did mine at home and am extremely happy with the results. and it wasn't hard at all.
as for mileage mine went up but not a whole lot and when i am really lead footed it does go through fuel.
as for mileage mine went up but not a whole lot and when i am really lead footed it does go through fuel.
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