First off :rofl::rofl: at the title and opening line. At least you've going into it with some humility lol. Welcome to the org.

Secondly, pictures say a thousand words, so if you could post some of your pigtail/splice areas that could help.

Do you have a monitor of any kind? Scangauge/Edge/Torque/Dashboss...anything that can read engine PIDs? Being able to read PIDs (and knowing what they mean and their relationship to each other) is going to be extremely helpful and important to keeping your blood pressure low while you own your 6.0

I'm just a couple hours away in La Grande, OR.....so I know the cold you've been dealing with. Just work on what you can for a short time, take a break to warm up, and come back to it. In the meantime, take the tune back to stock and lets start chewing away at this......

 

so you haphazardly used the light switch to switch the VGT ?

i am pretty sure you smoked the VGT solenoid and not the neighborhood when you flipped the smoke switch ;-)

 

Now the glow plug lights won't turn off for 10 seconds and the engine sounds terrible while puffing smoke.

 

That's exactly what I did. Now I'm SOL...

 

disconnect your batteries after you fix you wiring, then reconnect and see if it gets the computer to reset

you best hope you didn't short anything out

 

Disconnected, still giving me the long glow plug lights, black smoke, and high RPMs...

 

Are you tuned?

 

yes, SCT x4 tow tune

 

flash the truck back to stock and see what it does

 

Wait....so you hooked up those spliced wires in the pigtail to what looks like a relay pictured in the second picture? You didn't just hook the wires up to each other through a switch?

 

Absolutely.

I thought it was the same setup and was only using it because it was already there...I know, imma dummy

 

Set it back to stock, back to smooth idle, popped a P0198 code.

 

connection at the EOT sensor tight?

 

EOT sensor came unplugged, got it back in and cleared the code.

Now that the truck is actually running, the turbo is still not spooling.

 

Is it possible to modify that switch to make it work right?

 

Don't modify anything at this point, get everything together to make the wiring correct and go from there.

 

Everything is back to before I touched it. The intake won't suck air unless i hook up one wire from that harness to the one of the spliced wires. Even with the turbo hooked up like that, it won't go over 30 mph and has major bark.

So with all the wiring apart, it runs with no turbo...

 

What kind of intake do you have on the truck?

 

AFE Power Intake

 

It would really help if you had a monitor to report numbers without one it's kinda like shooting, at a pea, in the dark, on a rollercoaster....BUT

That being said, we can still try to help make things work. What you're saying sounds like it's trying to work correctly, but somethings still wrong (obviously lol). If you unplug it and it runs but you don't get any turbo performance, that's normal. The vanes get blown wide open by the exhaust pressure and make the truck really laggy. When you plug it in, it sounds like the vanes are closing.....but then won't open like they're supposed to, so the truck is fighting the exhaust and the turbo is actually becoming a big resistance....

So.....there's a chance that you need a new VGT solenoid....

You also should check to see what the wiring around the EBP sensor is like. In most strategies, the ECM uses the EBP value to send a commanded VGT duty cycle.....so if your EBP is clogged, it won't even send a signal for the vanes to open.

EDIT: If you run it, with the turbo unplugged.....is is a laggy smokey dog until about 3000RPM then does it take off like a bat outta hell?